Chapter 6 - The Lonely Planet

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After leaving Pukaskwa, I was beginning to feel like my trip was not going as planned. I had planned on spending a total of 4 nights winter camping - 2 in Lake Superior and 2 in Pukawska - all of which amounted to a night in a motel in Wawa and a night at Pukawska followed by getting kicked out even if I wanted to stay another night. On top of that, the next stop was Thunder Bay which I was not exactly looking forward to as much as I was hoping to get through it and find the elusive Quetico Provincial park where winter camping was assured (the only park that had an actual person answer the phone, along with Killarney) So the Lonely Planet became my guide from here on in, letting me know where to sleep/eat/etc. The recommened stay was an international hostel on the outskirts of Tbay which seemed like the best option and only $20.

I would pop down into Sleeping Giant (the first time) before reaching the hostel, and was a cool little side trip - but that's saved for a combo story in Chapter 7 - Oh Deer!

Before reaching Sleeping Giant and the hostel however was a pretty sweet drive not like the day before of driving through the bush where it was rolling hills of logged trees, desolate, big mines right on the highway and no sign of Lake Superior. I hadn't been able to check my email, so I had no idea if I would have any couch surfing requests that would be answered by surfers in Tbay. With all of this on my mind, I felt like my trip was falling apart, or at least happening too fast and I wasn't getting what I wanted out of it. I was getting lonely and I needed more interaction with people. By this point I thought I would have at least met some other campers or fellow travellers in hostels, but it was not looking promising. I needed to meet people at the Thunder Bay hostel or I was gonna go a bit crazy.

Arriving at the International Hostel outside Tbay (25 kms outside...) I found a note on the front door that said Lloyd and Wilma would be back by 4 (but the 4 was crossed out with a 5, and the 5 was crossed out with a 6). It was 4:30. So I decided to try and log onto the internet from the van and see if I could find a wireless connection while I waited. This momentous event would change everything that was about to unfold on this journey. I had more than a few couch surfing responses ranging from people that wanted to meet up for drinks to leads to other surfers where for sure I would be able to crash. Finally the social aspect was coming together and I was tempted to leave the hostel, drive into Tbay and try and find some surfers to host me. In the end I was still skeptical of the whole couch surfing concept, and decided to wait around for Lloyd and Wilma.



This car pulled up with the license plate BORNEO (just like lonely planet had mentioned) and out came an elderly couple with a spark of the backpacking lifestyle. Lloyd was wearing a long bright red and yellow poncho kind of thing under his jacket and Wilma was not dressed like your typical 70 something year old would. They eagerly invited me into their hostel/home and I quickly signed up and got myself a room. I had the full use of their place, so I went online and then made some dinner. While eating dinner I met the resident politician, Robert. He was an interesting character that at first seemed like a bit of a recluse who refused to take off his heavy winter coat and toque, but after engaging him in some politics and world financial talks, he lit up like a christmas tree. We ate and sat down to watch the leafs play on a huge high def screen and talked hockey and living in Toronto (as Robert had lived there for over 12 years).

Interestingly, all of these things would be last times for me for quite some time. It would be the last time anyone was interested in talking politics, finance, and the pros/cons of living in Toronto with me until Nelson, BC (where I am currently writing this blog). It is still the last time I have seen a leaf game thus far.

In any case I set off to message the couch surfers in town and let them know that the next day I would be looking for something to do with someone and possibly staying another night in Thunder Bay. The next morning would bring trouble for the van, as the blower motor died, and I was left with no heat.